Master the Art of Extraction: How to Remove Broken Bolts (Without Losing Your Mind)

Close-up view of the broken bolt fragment successfully extracted and attached to the screw extractor.

The Nightmare Scenario

I typically spend my days modifying or repairing CNC machines. But sometimes, requests come in that make me want to run away. Today’s story is exactly one of those cases: Removing Broken Bolts.

Ideally, I would avoid this task at all costs. But due to certain circumstances (and perhaps a bit of unavoidable destiny), I couldn’t say no.

Precision ground shafts with broken bolts stuck deep inside the holes.

Here is the situation. I was handed these precision ground shafts (linear rods) with broken bolts stuck deep inside. Not just one or two… but over 50 of them.

To make matters worse:

  • Size: Extremely small (UNF #10-32, roughly similar to M5).
  • Condition: Stuck deep inside the hole with broken heads.
  • The Kicker: They were coated with Thread Locker (Loctite).
  • Constraint: Since these are heat-treated precision parts, I couldn’t even use heat (like a torch) to loosen them.

When I first saw this, my reaction was very professional: “Oh… Holy… Music.”

The Weapon of Choice: Screw Extractor

Since the bolts were too small for welding and I couldn’t apply heat, I had to resort to the most classic, yet most tedious method: The Screw Extractor (often called a “Reverse Tap” or “Easy Out”).

A #1 size Screw Extractor, also known as a reverse tap.

I used a #1 Screw Extractor (the smallest size available).

To use this, you’ll also need a Tap Handle to grip the extractor firmly.

A standard tap handle resting on a palm.

Step-by-Step Removal Process

1. Preparation: Drilling with Carbide

You can’t just shove the extractor in. You need a pilot hole.

Since the bolt was tiny and likely hardened or tough, I used a 2.5mm Carbide Drill Bit (Solid Carbide). A standard HSS bit might struggle or wander, but carbide cuts through like butter.

A 2.5mm solid carbide drill bit used for drilling into the broken bolt.

2. The Extraction

The theory is simple.

  1. Drill a hole in the center of the broken bolt.
  2. Insert the Screw Extractor.
  3. Turn it Counter-Clockwise (Left).
  4. As the extractor bites into the bolt, the bolt should unscrew.

Close-up view of drilling a pilot hole into the center of the broken bolt.

If successful, the extractor will grip the bolt, and it will come out attached to the tool like this:

Close-up view of the broken bolt fragment successfully extracted and attached to the screw extractor.

Sounds easy, right? Well, reality is often disappointing.

To give you a better idea of the actual “feel” and the challenges involved, here is a video demonstration of the process.

The Secret Sauce: “The Finesse”

In photos or videos, it looks smooth. But if you try it, you’ll realize it’s a battle of nerves. Especially with thread locker applied, the bolt refuses to budge.

Here is the most critical tip: Control Your Force.

  • Too weak? The extractor won’t bite and will just slip.
  • Too strong? These extractors are hard but brittle. They will snap inside the bolt.
  • Warning: If the extractor breaks inside, you are in a world of pain that makes the original problem look like a joke.

A pile of small, broken bolt fragments successfully removed from the shafts.

You need to treat it like a stubborn child—firm but gentle. It requires a specific “push and twist” feel that only comes with experience (and a few broken tools). It’s like a romantic “push-and-pull” relationship, but with cold steel.

After sacrificing a few tools and getting a massive headache from stress, I successfully extracted all 50+ broken bolts from the shafts.

The precision shafts with clean holes after all broken bolts were removed.

Looking at this pile of scrap metal, it seems insignificant. But the sense of accomplishment? It’s surprisingly high.

If you are stuck with a broken bolt, take a deep breath, grab a carbide drill and an extractor, and remember: Patience is your best tool.

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