A Universal Annoyance
Unless you live completely off-grid, you know this sight: the chaotic mess of tangled power cords. The humble extension cord (or “power strip”) is an indispensable tool in modern life, bridging the gap between outlets and devices, expanding connectivity. They come in various lengths and configurations, and you can even make your own. Useful? Absolutely. Tidy? Rarely.
‘A madman’s hair?’ That’s what comes to mind looking at the picture above. If you find beauty in that chaos, well, perhaps you have unique tastes. For the rest of us, it’s a nuisance. Fail to coil them neatly after use, and you’re left with a tripping hazard and an eyesore that only gets worse over time. Untangling a long, knotted cord feels like a zen exercise in patience you never asked for.
(As an aside, my wife seems to have a particular talent for artistic cable tangling. It’s… impressive. Honey, if you’re reading this, I love you!)
So, for my sanity—and maybe hers too—I decided to build a better extension cord: one that refuses to tangle.
Yes, that’s a ‘cord heart,’ maybe better than a ‘finger heart’? Anyway, this post details how to make one.
The Secret Weapon: Coiled Cable
There’s a saying: ‘If you’re going to be crazy, be properly crazy.’ It’s better than being half-hearted, right? The same paradox applies to cables. Awkwardly kinked wires look messy, but a tightly, uniformly coiled cable looks neat and professional.
So, I used a properly coiled cable: a spiral cord
The specs are 1.5㎟ (approx. 15-16 AWG), 3-conductor. Not only does it look tidy, but its spring-like action makes it functionally useful, stretching when needed and retracting when not.
A quick note: The flexibility and elasticity of this locally sourced coiled cable weren’t quite as good as some I’ve imported before (different specs, though). The coil radius seems a bit too tight. While heat-treating could potentially reshape it, I decided to proceed as is for now.
Same Method, Different Wire
Making this is fundamentally the same as assembling any extension cord. You need the wire, a socket end (power strip), and a plug end. The only difference here is the type of wire.
(I’m omitting basic tools and miscellaneous hardware like terminals and heat shrink, which I used due to my ‘clumsy technician’ habits.)
⚠️ CRITICAL WARNING: Match Your Plug Type and Voltage!
DO NOT PROCEED UNTIL YOU READ THIS. Electricity is dangerous.
- Plug Type: The plug and socket shown in my photos are Type F (also known as “Schuko”), which is standard in South Korea, Germany, Austria, the Netherlands, Spain, Portugal, and many Northern & Eastern European countries. This is NOT COMPATIBLE with plugs in the United States/Canada (Type A/B), the United Kingdom (Type G), France/Belgium (Type E), or many other regions. (Always verify your local standard!)
- Voltage & Wire Gauge: All components in this guide are for a 220V / 60Hz electrical system, using 1.5㎟ wire. If you live in a country with 110-120V (like the US, Canada, or Japan), you MUST use a plug, socket, and appropriately rated wire (e.g., AWG) for your system.
Using the wrong components for your country’s standard can lead to electric shock, fire, and damaged equipment. Always buy parts that are certified for use in your region.
The Step-by-Step Process (It’s Easy, But Be Careful!)
For those who prefer watching over reading, here’s the full assembly process from start to finish. (Just remember the safety warnings below apply!)
⚠️ CRITICAL SAFETY WARNING: Electricity Can Kill.
- If you are not comfortable or experienced working with mains voltage electricity, DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS PROJECT. Hire a qualified electrician.
- Always double-check that the power is OFF before touching any wires or terminals. Assume everything is live until proven otherwise.
- Ensure all components (plug, socket, wire) match your country’s electrical standards (voltage, plug type, wire gauge). Using incompatible parts is a major fire and shock hazard. (See previous warning section for details on Type F plugs vs. others).
Once you’ve confirmed you have the right parts and understand the risks, the assembly is straightforward.
Step 1: Disassemble Plug and Socket Take apart the plug and socket housings to access the terminals inside.
Step 2: Prepare the Cable Ends Carefully strip the outer jacket of the coiled cable, exposing the inner wires. Then strip a small amount of insulation from the end of each inner wire. Pro Tip: Cut the wires to the correct length needed to reach their respective terminals inside the housing. Wires stripped too long can protrude outside, looking messy and potentially causing shorts or shocks. I use leftover outer jacket pieces and heat shrink tubing to build up the cable diameter where it’s clamped by the housing for a secure, professional fit.
Step 3: Connect the Wires Connect each wire to the correct terminal in both the plug and the socket. Critical Note: While wire colors can vary, NEVER mix up the ground wire with the live (hot/neutral) wires. A mistake here is extremely dangerous. (My wiring: Red/Black → Live/Neutral (220V), White → Ground. Note: Green or Green/Yellow is the standard ground color in most regions; I used white as a substitute.)
Step 4: Reassemble Housings Carefully put the plug and socket housings back together, ensuring no wires are pinched and the cable clamps are secure. Remember the golden rule: “Assembly is the reverse of disassembly.”
The Finished Product
Here it is compared to a standard (non-coiled) cord of similar extended length (approx. 3m). The difference in tidiness is obvious.
That concludes the build. Hopefully, this is helpful for anyone tired of fighting cable clutter.
Wife Approved (For Now)
My wife saw the finished cord, said, “Nice job,” and immediately put it to use with a fan for drying laundry indoors. She appreciates not having to untangle it. Despite my minor quibble about the cable’s elasticity, it feels rewarding to have made something useful.
“Now, please, try not to tangle this one… okay?” 😉
